Sunday, October 18, 2009

Strangers in Our Homeland

Yesterday's topic of conversation during family lunch was surprising. It was a complaint I only expected my age group in our social circles to have. Funnily enough, my parents "feel like strangers in our own country". It saddens me to hear that they've come to share my discomfort in Egypt. I understand people like me when they claim to feel little for this country. We were born in an era where no allegiance was encouraged. We were born and continue to live under the same detached incumbent. We were born into bubbles of financial stability, air-conditioned cars, suburban neighbourhoods, hired help and private educations. We were born a caste unto ourselves, free from infiltration or mingling with the rest of our populace.

But our parents and grandparents were born at times of socioeconomic and political mobilizations. They grew up in times where patriotism was paramount, where you had reason to be proud to be Egyptian. They fought wars for their country. They elected their leaders. They mourned their leaders. Egypt had global status as the link between the East and West. Cairo was the Paris of the Orient. The Egyptian Pound held value. Even those who lived under Abdel Nasser had more love for this country than I ever could. They may have lived in hardship but they believed in a greater united Arab nation. There was an ideology to protect, even if it resulted in their own impecuniosity. Sadat brought Egypt prestige by standing up to the neighbourhood bully. He gave Sinai back to our people. He put Egypt back on the international affairs map. That made our parents proud to be Egyptian whether they agreed with his politics or not.

Egypt was a united nation where you did not know Muslim from Christian. Today, it is the first thing you want to know. More often than not, you don't even need to ask. Until our generation came of age, your country had a middle class that was comfortable without being ostentatiously wealthy. Today, you are either a prince or a pauper. There is no normal option. When our parents were in high school, they went through the public school system and lived productive, enriched lives. Today, there is no public school system. You either go to an expensive private school or receive no education, because what you are supposedly taught by the State does not even cover basic hygiene. Today, you can smell a person before they come into view. Today, you cannot cross a street in baggy clothes - or even in a veil - without being harassed. Today, if you do not speak a particular strain of Arabic, you are a foreigner. Today, if you are not one of the poor, the angry, the frustrated and the radical, you are not Egyptian.

I thought our parents still managed to feel at one with a rapidly deteriorating country because they lived through an important milestone in Egypt's modern history. They connected with the country on more than one level. They knew what it meant to be Egyptian. Unfortunately, it is this very knowledge that depresses them most today. They know what it meant to be Egyptian. They no longer identify with what it means to be Egyptian today. This saddens them beyond measure, because they must mourn their lost sense of self. My identity revolves around my Western education, my personal beliefs, my family, my goals and my accomplishments. I have no sense of self within my country. I never had and never will, so I have lost nothing.

Any emotion I feel towards Egypt is rooted in pity. I feel sorry for a fallen giant but I see no means to help it back up. And this, while is a sad state, does not move me in any meaningful way. This is not my land to worry about. It has never included me, never welcomed me, never nurtured me and never will. But it has abandoned my parents and their generation to the point of depression. To the point where they are actively considering emigration or at least a pied-à-terre elsewhere so that they can detox on a regular basis.

Imagine having to detox from your own homeland. What kind of life is that? What kind of country is that? As doleful as the status quo is, this is Egypt. And by the looks of things, this is Egypt for many generations to come.

9 comments:

DINA said...

.......WOW!!!

raised abroad i clearly remember the eighties (yes im in my 30's ughh.) a very strange and pivotal time for egypt it was. we used to visit every 2 years, and between '85 and '90 women with long flowing hair had become a rare commodity. and questions like 'mom why does the man in the jewelry store have a thing on his forehead?' were common.

i must admit the trend kept me away and egypt's dichotomy/schizophrenia freaked me out. and i never went back after '92.

a woman dressed in full-on wahbi regalia next to a girl in DVF sundress bbming just freaks me out!

god bless you dunno how you do it!

Fesh said...

I remember how my late uncle used to proudly talk about his years of political dissedence and how he was repeatedly thrown in elmo3takal. I can't imagine myself doing that for the country, and it's scary to think that basically no one cares to do that anymore. It seems our generation has given up on being involved politically.

But on the other hand, I don't think Egypt's future is set in stone. I have high hopes for the 2011 elections.

mennah hafez (tousa) said...

this should be published somewhere where everyone sees it, i love how it depicts the truth so much and describes the place that my dear egypt has become.

i though i was one of the most patriotic pple of my generation until i have given upon the city too

i wish we can live in egypt but be able o breathe walk and talk freely and that the majority of the people are not beggers

i love my country so much that i can not see what has become of it

but i know nothing stays the same maybe our grandchildren will see a reformed egypt

this just must be a phase

mennah hafez (tousa) said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Tamer Timberlake said...

yes i second having your post published!

my childhood was similar to that of Dina, although i still have some faith in egypt :)

my parents have entertained the thought of retiring in egypt, but have finally come to the realization that it will never be possible.

Eureka said...

Dina and Tamer - the downward spiral is all the more obvious to those who aren't in the middle of it. You more than anyone can see the drastic change. Although there remains some good in Egypt, it continues to dwindle. I hope Feshfesh is right and that some positive change will take place with the 2011 elections, but I doubt it.

Tousa - thank you for the love! Always appreciated :) I really wish things were different here, too. Who knows, you might be right about our grandchildren!

Robert De Sable said...

"maybe our grandchildren will see a reformed egypt"

I didn't want to bet on it, so I made my decision. I decided I owe it to myself and my (future) children to live in a decent society. I made the necessary sacrifices, and off I went.

scribbled said...

it's rare that changes are so deep and keenly felt that you notice them as they occur around you and not just each time you see a place after a period away. in cairo today each week seems to bring another shelf of shit, and even on such a fat pile as this, you can't help but notice the latest lurches backwards and spirals down.
as for identity, i don't know anymore what egyptian is other than resenting where you're from or what it's become. all the pride seems reserved for ritualistic, dry observation twisted out of their religion.

spaz said...

I understand your sentiments, but really, you're not missing much by not possessing patriotism. Few feelings are as blind or blinding. Just check out middle America.

Also, while it's true that the crap here is growing at exponential levels, let's not completely glorify the slightly less crappy past. Nasser's and, yes, Sadat's Egypt were both repressive, brutal places for both the middle classes and the poor. The upper classes understandably carry more resentment towards Nasser, but let's not forget Sadat's hand in radicalizing popular and political Islam as well as the thousands of secularists, leftists, and other "ists" whom he threw in jail with not even a hint of a trial. And of course, he came up with what is now the NDP.

Egypt has always been a poor place. While Faten Hamama and Miriam Fakhr el Deen's characters were able to wear nicer dresses and go to better parties than us and lead slightly less hassled lives, bear in mind that the Cairo and Alex of those movies, while surely reflective to some degree of cities far more elegant than they are today, are a depiction of an astoundingly tiny minority of society. Our parents may not have been quite as hopeless at our ages as we are now, but the rest, the masses, were riding public transport, holding on to misogynist traditions, and looking for some kind of competent government to let them farm their land, own their shops, or run their families in peace.

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